And it’s finally time to write about Cambodia. My Cambodia. And it’s just that this country doesn’t leave me indifferent. It’s not for nothing, I’ve already been more than 6 months here, although my travel drive is now kicking me in the ass.
So far I’ve been talking about every town I was visiting trying to write posts not very long, but that format is not possible anymore for Cambodia. Nevertheless I think some of you will like the new format since you’ll get a better insight into the country and into my day a day while traveling. I hope. At least until I am able to update the blog (yeah, I’ve been 10 months trying it ).
Well, what I’ve decided is to write a series of post to create a Portrait of Cambodia.
My vision of Cambodia is not the vision of an occasional traveler and least of all the one of a tourist. Despite this, next post will not be part of the Portrait and will be for those who get only short holidays and just want to know what the fuck they can see in Cambodia; with all my love
I’m not either to tell you what an expat would do: all the western stuff that is possible to do here with a Cambodian touch and “little” money. With all due respect to them, most of expats have only a superficial vision of how Cambodia is. They live their lives loaded with a very favorable exchange rate and/or with much higher salaries than Cambodian people (except those rolling in bribes: politicians, judges, attorneys, lawyers, policemen, doctors; and the list goes on and on). And most of them don’t bother either to learn the language, just a few words they hear repeated). Hopefully I’m wrong about that and I’ll receive tens of comments of pissed off expats
Not against expats
Just in case my previous text sounds a bit aggressive, I don’t hold anything against expats
, in fact they are generally a good source of knowledge and help, a comfort of shared culture and good company
I just believe they don’t tend to integrate into the local culture but to expect/force the locals to adapt to the western culture because it’s “better”
. This kind of subculture has pros and cons: it can attract the worst of the local society and also create ghettos or it can mean a very positive influence in traditional societies not open to the rest of the world, its freedom and its opportunities.
What I’m going to describe in this series is the real Cambodia, the one its population lives, suffers and enjoys everyday. You’re maybe wondering what gives me the right to say that this is the real Cambodia; after all, despite my words, any expat has been here much more time and knows much more about the country than me. Well, there are a lot of realities; mi reality is the one of those who have nothing, perhaps subjectivized by my own existence. In this series I’m not going to tell you about places (at least that’s not the main aim), I’m going to tell you about people, about feelings, about souls. I want you to see Cambodia as I see it. I want you to see Cambodia from the eyes of those who have not any other choice but survive here and from the eyes of those who try to get the country off the ground with their small acts. I’ll tell you about what I read in the eyes of the people, in their face, in their hands, in their skin, in their wrinkles. If I’ve learned anything in Cambodia it’s to read, to understand, to pity, to not judge and to love what would be easy to reject and send away from us. I still have to work a lot in myself in those aspects but without any doubt Cambodia has left a mark on me and I’ll try to make you understand that mark.
If I’m able to transmit you all of that is because in Cambodia I’ve got what I couldn’t get in Laos and frustrated me. I’m totally integrated in the country, I can live and feel as they do. An important part of that achievement is due to Sothy, a young Cambodian girl who owns a small farm and produce the famous Kampot Pepper (one of the best in the world; I’ll write also about it on a post aside from the series). I was happily working 4 months at her farm in exchange of accommodation and food. She taught me a lot about Cambodian society, about the life here and about humans in general. The other part is due to my way of traveling, poor as a church mouse, what allows me to share a table with the most grim reality of the country.
Many people ask me what I’ve seen in Cambodia, why I’m staying here so long. Well, the ugly truth is that at the very beginning I stopped here because I didn’t have money anymore. I arrived to SE Asia more than 8 months ago with around 1000€. Due to a moderate consumption and to hitchhiking I could spend only 400€ per month in Thailand and Laos. However when arrived to Cambodia it was almost nothing left in my bank account so, knowing how easy is to extend the visa here, I decided to look for a place where I could stay without time limit until I could find the way to make money online while traveling. And that’s how I arrived, along with Belén, to Sothy’s Pepper Farm which I already knew about thanks to Hans and Håkon, two Norwegian guys whom I met in Ban Hoy Bo, a small village neighbor of Ban Na, north of Laos. So far I’ve not been able to make money but I’ve got something much more important/interesting: not to spend. Or at least spend almost nothing (although maybe they don’t know about this, Mélanie and Tristan, a French couple I met at Cade’s, my CouchSurfing host/friend in Phnom Penh, were a very important key for that, so thanks ). Unlike what you could think, I don’t care much about my accounting now, I just have a general idea of what I can spend and in the last 6 months in Cambodia I’ve spent less than half the money I was spending in 1 month in Thailand or Laos: on average I live with 1€ a day. And yes, I’ve also continued traveling
I’ll write later about how to survive with almost no money. Now it’s time to talk about my loved Cambodia.